Thursday, March 26, 2015

A Tool for Learning Female Proportions

Understanding proportions by head length, head width and eye width is necessary for sculpting realistic figures. Applying the rules of proportion every time you make an armature and sculpt a doll  will help you learn them. Thanks to this doll maker for sharing her tool for memorizing  these proportions:

Saturday, March 21, 2015

Human Proportion

Caution: contains statue nudity!
This video discusses human proportion using head length as a unit of measure; a convenient reference for sculptors to use.

Friday, March 20, 2015

Genesis Paint Color Chart

You will find a chart for all Genesis heat-set paint colors here:

Monday, March 16, 2015

Problem: Moonies

Thanks to this doll maker for this short photo tutorial demonstrating how to repair a 'moonie' that appears after you bake your doll:

Friday, March 13, 2015

How To Wrap Armature Wires

This video demonstrates padding the waist, arms and legs on a doll that is designed to be bent into their pose after all the polymer clay parts have been baked and the wires inserted (either baked-in or glued-in after baking).

Sunday, March 8, 2015

How To Alter A Doll Stand

This video demonstrates how to alter a mini doll stand to remove the wires that circle a doll's waist area. This doll maker then glues her doll directly to the stand.

Gluing A Doll To A Stand

This is an interesting idea for keeping your doll standing. If your doll is the poesable type, only the arms will remain bendable.

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Iris 'Printies'

If you need sheets of iris 'printies' to use when making eyeballs to insert into your doll sculpt, look no more! Thanks to this doll maker who has shared 2 sheets for you to download (free). You will find them here along with several tutorials about making and inserting eyes:

Friday, February 27, 2015

Wigging Tutorials

Want to learn how to create lovely hairdos for your dolls? Thanks to this doll maker for offering a Wigging for you to join. A link to a photo tutorial with clear directions will be emailed directly to you each month. To access, you simply subscribe. You will find the newsletter subscription button here:
Scroll down the web page and you will also find a costume tutorial with a pattern, free for you to download.

Sunday, February 22, 2015

'No-Sew' Dressing 1:12 Scale Dolls

Thanks to this doll maker for these 2 videos showing how she makes a 'no-sew' half slip and skirt on her doll. So simple! You can see them here:
And 5 more here showing how the jacket is made:
jacket pattern here:

Friday, February 20, 2015

Blending and Smoothing Clay Parts Together

This skill is one a doll maker new to sculpting with polymer clay needs to master.

Friday, February 13, 2015

Polymer Clay Eyes

Thanks to this doll maker for an interesting tutorial on making eyes using polymer clay and finishing with UV gel. Be sure to check out these 3 videos plus a discussion of this technique:

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Polymer Clay For Doll Sculpting

There are many brands of polymer clay that are suitable for small scale doll making and each doll maker has their favorite clay. Some doll makers mix clays to get the flesh tone they desire or to increase strength. The Guild suggests that you try many clays until you find the one that suits your sculpting style. Listed below are some flesh colored clays to try:
  • Prosculpt  (comes in light, baby and flesh)
  • FIMO Puppen* is now called FIMO Professional Doll Art (comes in opaque sand, translucent beige, opaque cameo, translucent rose, and translucent porcelain).
  • Sculpey Living Doll (comes in light, beige, baby and brown)
  • Sculpey Premo (comes in light flesh)
  • Cernit (comes in flesh, suntan, biscuit, almond, nougat and caramel)
  • Kato Polyclay (comes in beige flesh)
* Puppen is still available at some suppliers (comes in beige, rose, flesh and porcelain)

Monday, February 2, 2015

Preparing To Sculpt An OOAK Doll

Ever want to watch someone begin to sculpt their doll? This doll maker shares her WIP so you can see her process: make a wire armature, stabilize wire with epoxy, add an undersculpt of crumpled foil for additional bulk, wrap all exposed wire and the undersculpt with tape, and then apply the outer layer of polymer clay. All that is done prior to starting to sculpt the clay into the shape desired. It's easy, especially once you see it done!

Thursday, January 29, 2015

Working With Patterns Using Freezer Paper

This link is to a very good tutorial on making a corset for a doll and includes a free pattern for you to 'size' to fit your doll. Of particular interest is how this doll maker uses freezer paper for making her patterns and how to use the freezer paper pattern pieces when cutting fabric. Be sure to try this technique!

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Using Black Markers On Polymer Clay

Thanks to this polymer clay artist who has tested and compared black markers and inks. Whether you’re signing your doll, coloring eye pupils or adding a design element, doll makers need to know which black markers may bleed or fade when used on polymer clay.  See the results here:
Our advice is to be sure to test your black or colored markers on a sample of your brand of polymer clay so you won't be disappointed with the result when used on your dolls (remember that products used to seal or gloss may cause some markers to bleed too)

Sunday, January 18, 2015

Friday, January 16, 2015

Armatures - For Use In Molds

Thanks to this doll maker for these 2 photo tutorials on how to make and size a wire armature for use in small scale polymer clay doll molds:

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Painting With Makeup

Here is another painting technique to try. This doll maker is using foundation, blush, and eye shadow on cured clay to achieve realistic completion tones.The products are all creme based; applied to the face and then baked for 15 minutes (lipstick can also applied to the mouth, and after baking, use a compatible sealer for a glossy finish).
Note: the Magic Eraser used for sanding cured clay is the original (not the one with added cleanser).

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Doll-A-Month Challenge

Our challenge to everyone is to create at least one doll every all beginners or more experienced doll makers. It is said that it takes at least 20 completed dolls before you can consider yourself a doll maker. So lets get started.

So, how long does it take to make an OOAK doll? We guesstimate that it takes about 30-40 hours; more or less! That is 1 to 2 hours a day, 4 to 5 days a week for 4 weeks. Very do-able for a hobbyist!

Challenge Rules:
1. Don't copy, create! Look for inspiration but incorporate that into your own design.
2. Develop your style! It may take you a few years to recognize that you have one, but everyone does.
3. Don't beat yourself up if things go wrong; it happens to us all!

Blushing With Chalk Pastels

Sunday, December 28, 2014

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Free 1:12 Scale Downloads

Our thanks to this dollhouse doll maker for these very useful gifts:
a man's basic 1:12 scale pants pattern:
a 1:12 scale scale fabric finder:

Monday, December 15, 2014

How To Fill A Push Mold

Some doll makers use commercial push molds, or a mold they made themselves, to start their polymer clay doll. The shaped clay that is taken from a mold is called a body blank. Starting with a body blank lets a doll maker begin with the correct amount of clay and then the clay is sculpted and detailed by the doll maker after the clay is removed from a mold.  Used in this way a mold is just a proportion aide for sculpting like any other tool. For more information, click on the topic Push Molds in the blog's Index.

Clay Blending Chart For Skin Tones

If you are looking for a color chart for blending the new FIMO Doll Art clay here is one for you that is published by Staedtler, the maker of the clay:

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Some Sculpting Tips

This link takes you to a Facebook page where a professional doll artist has placed several short clips from his videos for you to watch and learn.

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Monday, November 17, 2014

Tips For Making Realistic Doll Heads

Thanks to this doll maker for sharing information about making your doll's head look realistic. Tips include sculpting and painting as well as anatomy and some basic clay preparation. You will find it here:

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Painting With Heat Set Paints

These techniques work on any scale doll sculpted with polymer clay.
NOTE: Use caution with Low Odour Thinners to thin Genesis paint for polymer clay dolls as is done for vinyl baby dolls. It is safer to thin with Genesis Thin Medium or make a transparent paint with Genesis Thick Medium. Look in the blog Index for more posts about the topic 'Painting" with information about using heat set paint mediums.

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

All About Translucent Liquid Sculpey

Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) has many uses for doll making. Once you know how to handle and bake it, you can begin to use it as an adhesive and embed elements into raw clay. You can also add color to TLS. Besides the basics, there are other uses such as; as a glaze, as a clay softener, as 'paint' over raw and baked clay, and for making thin, flexible, translucent transfers.
To learn more about these techniques read the information from Sculpey that you will find here:

Monday, November 10, 2014

How To Make Small Eyeballs

Thanks to this doll maker for her photo tutorial on making eyeballs from beads. Before making an eyeball to be inserted into polymer clay, test it first to see if it will melt or change color from the heat of the oven. Find the tutorial here:

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Saturday, November 1, 2014

Gluing A Seam Using A Syringe

Place a small amount of Tacky glue in a container (such as a bottle cap). Let it air dry until a crust forms on top. It takes a little while. Remove the crust. The glue will be thickened. The glue is now 'more tacky' so various materials stay in place better, it doesn't bleed through fabric as easily and works as a filler. However, if you are going to drape the finished costume using water, steam, spray starch or other water -based solution be sure your glue is one that is waterproof. When used with water-based glue (such as Tacky or Fabric Fusion) you can either use the  'plug' technique or completely wash out the syringe between uses.

Loading Glue Into A Syringe

Inserting glue into the syringe as demonstrated is important. Be sure to place only the small amount of glue that you will need for your doll's costume into the syringe; better too little then too much. Once your glue is inserted into your syringe, insert the tip into a block of foam or cover the tip with an applicator cap.
My choice of syringe is a Leur Lock syringe and blunt needle tip. The syringe and tips are available on-line from rhinestone hobby suppliers. Here are the tip sizes to try:

Largest Tip - GREEN - for Gel type glue like E6000 and Fabric-Tac

Medium Large Tip - PURPLE - for  thick glues

Small Tip - PINK - for thinner glues like Gem Tac or Fabric Fusion

Smallest Tip - YELLOW

Applicator Cap – Red -  for temporary glue storage.

Cleaning Tip: If you squeeze out a small amount of thick gel-type glue out of the tip of a syringe (glues such as Fabri-Tac or E6000) and leave it to harden after use, you will be able to subsequently pull this 'plug' out and use the syringe a few more times. Eventually the plug will harden through the diameter of the tip and the syringe will be useless.  Water-based glue can be washed out.

Monday, October 27, 2014

Picasa's Folder Manager

Here is a link to a must watch video for users of Google's FREE photo editing software called Picasa  (lots of our doll makers have found it easy to use for editing their doll photos). Click this link to view the YouTube video:  And then, check our blog Index for additional posts about Picasa found under the topic 'Photography'.

Friday, October 17, 2014

Sculpt a 1 Inch Head

Thanks to this doll maker for her photo tutorial of a head that is slightly more than 1 inch tall. She  starts with an under-sculpt that is skull shaped and inserts clay eyeballs. Her under-sculpt is foam covered with foil but it could be made from clay, epoxy, foil, etc. Find it here:

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Make An Armature & Apply An Under Sculpt

This is Part 1 of a 2 part video. In this part the doll maker discusses selecting a wire, using a jig to make an armature and how and why she uses a 2 part sculpting epoxy for her under sculpts. Part 2 demonstrates applying clay over the under sculpt. Thanks to this doll maker for sharing her tips and techniques.

Applying Clay Over An Under Sculpt - Part 2

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Sculpting Feet

Thanks to this doll maker for sharing this photo tutorial on sculpting feet. This includes the tools she used and a foot reference too. Find it here:

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Tips For Using Epoxy To Make A Base

Great tips for making a base in this video. The product demonstrated is Apoxie Sculpt, an air-dry 2 part epoxy compound. Some doll makers use this product for forming an under-sculpt prior to sculpting their doll (see the topic'Under-Sculpt' listed in the Index for more information)

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Problem: Using Sealers Over Heat-Set Paints

Many doll makers have reported that some acrylic varnishes and sealers remain tacky when used over Genesis paint. To find out more about this problem, we checked the Genesis Oil Paint web site. Here is what we found out: they state that you do not need to seal Genesis paint for protection. If you choose to use an acrylic varnish or sealer over Genesis paints, be sure to test it before using it to be sure it is compatible with polymer clay and the heat-set paint.

Genesis makes 3 varnish products that can be used as a sealer over their heat-set paint: 
Heat Set Satin-permanent varnish
Heat Set Matte - permanent varnish
Air Dry Gloss - removable varnish
To use the Genesis varnishes, first paint with Genesis heat-set paint on your doll and then apply a very thin coat of Genesis Varnish with a brush or sponge. Heat-set the Satin and Matte varnish as usual but do not heat the Gloss Varnish. If the doll gets dirty over time, the Gloss Varnish can be removed with an ammonia solution or window cleaner and a fresh coat reapplied.

Sometimes when you paint your dolls face, the heat-set paint develops a slight gloss appearance. You can apply a thin coat of Matte Varnish to the area where you do not want any shine.

Hope this helps

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

More About Sealing Polymer Clay

Thanks to this polymer clay artist for her in-depth artile on sealing polymer clay and types of sealers to use (and why or why not). Check it out here:

Merbaby - too cute!

Friday, September 19, 2014

Make An Armature For An 8 to 12 Inch Doll

This doll maker is using white floral tape to cover any exposed armature wire, and the aluminum foil and aluminum duct tape covering the wire (you can also use masking tape). She used foil for bulking out the body on this size doll. Most smaller dolls do not need to have the bulk added. The object of bulking out the body is to apply a layer of polymer clay that is uniformly about 1/4  inch to 1/2 inch thick to ensue complete curing during baking.
NOTE: Notice that the foil is crumpled loosely around the wire; do not crush it tight.

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Harry Potter

Harry Potter practicing spells! 1:12 scale sculpt from ProSculpt on a multiple wire, posable armature.  He is painted with Genesis paints, eyes are made on glass head pins, hair is viscose and costume is done in cotton lawn.

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Coloring Liquid Clay

This article is a report on the testing done by a polymer clay artist as she created liquid clay in colors. This technique may be of interest to makers of art dolls:

Monday, September 1, 2014

Another Sculpting Baby Heads Video

I love this YouTube video. these heads are so tiny and those little expressions are sooo cute! Thanks to this doll maker for sharing this demonstration with us.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

One Last Thought On Conditioning Clay

This post is one clay artists thoughts on mixing clay with a pasta machine vs a food chopper. Be sure to read it here:

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Choosing An Oven For Baking Polymer Clay

Thanks to this polymer clay artist for her information about baking; dos and don'ts, what's safe and what's not. Find it here:

Friday, August 15, 2014

Painting Realistic Eyes

Thanks to this artist for her step-by-step photo tutorial, plus a detailed explanation, on how she paints realistic eyes. Find it here:

Thursday, August 14, 2014

Monday, August 4, 2014

Jack Sparrow

Jack Sparrow is a 1:12 scale ooak sculpt made with ProSculpt. Jack is set on a multi strand aluminum wire armature and is posable except at the neck. He is painted with Genesis paints and his dreadlocks are a combination of wool roving and Mohair that was needle felted together. His shirt is tea stained white cotton lawn, blue cotton lawn over dyed with purple was used to make his aubergine over vest and his pants are brown cotton lawn. Books are sculpted in the clay. His belts are leather with mini buckles. Tiny seed beads were used in his hair and the little pelts were made with the fur from cat toys. Still working on his compass, tricorner hat and pistol!

Saturday, August 2, 2014

Sculpting Hands Class

Here you will find a nice 12 step photo tutorial on sculpting a hand:

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Tips For Sculpting Hands

Thanks to this doll maker for sharing her sculpting shortcuts for hands:

Friday, July 18, 2014

Merlin's knight

Merlin's Knight is a 1:12 ooak sculpt made with Puppen polymer clay.  He is fully posable including the neck. His eyes are made on glass pins with iris contacts and his details are painted with Genesis paint.  His chain mail is made from Artistic wire that comes in a tube form.  The shield is made with a layer of buttons covered with aluminum tape, arm guards are also aluminum tape and the dagger is made from a nail and earring back. Belt is real leather. Dragon is a work in progress.



Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Pattern For A Corset/Bodice

Here is a web page with a link to get a ready made pattern to fit a 1:12 scale doll. The pattern is for a 3 piece corset; front back and shaped sides and is sized to a particular mannequin so be sure to cut the pattern from paper towel and adjust the pieces to fit your own doll's torso. It is sometimes difficult to get these 3 pieces shaped right when starting from scratch so our thanks to this doll maker for sharing her pattern:

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Making Half and Quarter Scale Dollhouse Dolls

Thanks to this dollhouse scale doll maker for her WIP as she constructs half scale and quarter scale dolls:

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Body Proportions

This is a link to information on the body proportions of male and female, and differences because of the age of the figure being portrayed. Very helpful; check it out here:

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Skull Proportions

Are you trying to  make a skull under sculpt? This front and side view may help you with correct proportions:

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Forming The Shape Of A Head

This video trailer for a DVD demonstrates shaping a basic skull in preparation for sculpting facial features. The head is larger than the smaller scale dolls we sculpt but you may find it helpful to visualize the shape. View it here:

Friday, June 20, 2014

More About Sculpting A Baby

Thanks to this doll maker for sharing her sculpting a baby photo tutorial. The web page is in Russian but you can translate it:
For more about this topic be sure to check this blog's Index for "Babies and Children."

Monday, June 16, 2014

Undersculpt For Eyes - Part 1 of 2

This video demonstrates using Epoxy Sculpt as an under sculpt in the eye sockets, placement of the pre-made eyeballs into the epoxy, and when set, adding the eyelids. She also shares how she visualizes the planes of the head as she sculpts the face.

Undersculpt For Eyes - Part 2 of 2

This video covers adjusting the depth of the eyes as well as sculpting the back half of the head, inserting a wire armature, and ears.

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Feather Wings

Here is a little pdf booklet about how to make small scale wings from feathers:

Tips For Using UV Gel

Many doll makers use a UV gel product for coating eyeballs and for embellishments. There are several brands of these products to choose from. This video demonstrates how to work with them.

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Polymer Clay Eyeballs

Creating eyeballs for your polymer clay dolls is both easy and affordable. This doll maker shares her method of making eyeballs from polymer clay and painting them with acrylic paint and a Micron pen. She begins by making a mold to control the size. See her complete tutorial here:

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Easy Picture Hat

Here is a photo tutorial, with a pattern for a 1 7/8 inch brim, for making a basic picture hat for your miniature doll:

Easy Pantaloons

Need to put pantaloons on your miniature doll?  This tutorial shows an easy, pretty way to make them no matter the height of your doll. It demonstrates attaching to your doll using the glue method (you could also sew them):

Sunday, May 25, 2014

Under-sculpt For Your Doll's Head

You can make a skull from polymer clay to use as an under-sculpt for your doll's head. The size of the skull depends on the scale of the doll you are making. For small dolls the under-sculpt must be small enough to fit inside the doll's head, leaving space to add about 1/8  inch of clay over it; for larger heads, about 1/4 inch. Directions for forming a basic skull shape are found here:
and this photo tutorial demonstrates covering the under-sculpt with clay and sculpting the head:

Sculpt A Male Figure

Thanks to this doll artist for sharing his WIP photo tutorial of a nude male figure. Lots of sculpting tips included too:

Copyright Explained

Confused about copyright issues? Here are two links to some information that may help explain copyright and myth. The first article is about taking an on-line class and then what is required of you in regards to giving credit for your work: 
The second article is information about copyright in general and some myths you may have heard:

Saturday, May 24, 2014

More Techniques To Try With Genesis Paints

This doll maker said her baby head is sculpted with Living Doll polymer clay and is painted with Genesis heat-set paint that has been thinned with Genesis Thinning Medium. The head is larger than our small scale doll's heads but the techniques can be accomplished, just think smaller sizes.

Using Genesis Paint On Polymer Clay Dolls

In the jar, Genesis paint is like a stiff paste. You must remove a bit of the paint from the jar to your glass palette and stir/whip it to make it smooth and buttery. When left alone on a non-porous surface, it returns to its original state, without drying. You must heat set for it to dry. Genesis states on their web site that “transparent washes can be achieved by tinting the Thick Medium. Using the Thick Medium gives you a good layer of paint and the transparency that you need". Some doll makers mix a wash by thinning Genesis colors with odorless thinner. Genesis states that "thinning with a small amount of an oil solvent will not permanently thin the paint, as the paint will return to its original state as the solvent evaporates off". Read more about using Genesis products at:

Then try these techniques:

To use as a blush on the body, apply a bit of the Thick Medium on to a flat glass surface and tint it to the color you desire. Work it to make it soft and buttery. The consistency is soft but thick and transparent. Take a very tiny amount and smear it on the glass palette until it is very thin layer. Then dab a cosmetic sponge into it. You want the sponge to pick up just a tiny bit of it. Apply to you doll using a pouncing motion where you want to add blush to the head and body.  Always apply a thin layer, heat set, and then add more until you achieve the depth of color you desire, like painting with china paints.

To use as a paint for features, mix the color you desire and work it to get it smooth and buttery. If you like to paint with a thinner consistency, you can add a small amount of Thinning Medium or Glazing Medium (has a shine). Genesis states that these two thinning mediums “are very efficient so additions must be very small”; the recommended maximum amount of medium to add to the color is 40%.

Be sure to check this blog's INDEX and click on the topic 'Painting" to read more about heat set and acrylic paints.

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Sleeve Patterns

This link is to a series of sleeve patterns for 1:12 scale dolls. If you change just the sleeves on your doll's costume you completely change the look of it. For variation, you can also add cuffs, ruffles, lace, etc. or just cut longer and turn under for a hem.

Friday, May 16, 2014

Profile Grid

This drawing tutorial offers a grid to overlay your doll's profile helping you to check placement and depth of its features. A great tool to self critique using a photo of your sculpt:

Monday, May 12, 2014

Side Show Characterrs

Side Show Characters for a miniature club, summer fair project. They were inspired by the characters on circus side show banners. These are 1:12 scale ooak dolls made with FIMO classic and painted with Genesis paints. Both have Bunka hair. The strong man is dressed in a nylon fabric and the swami on the bed of nails is dressed in silk with a ribbon edging for his trim on his pants and shoes. Swami's bed of nails is made with 750 straight pins, cut to size!

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Brow Mapping

Brows generally follow the brow bone. On humans, the brow hair grows there whereas on your doll, you will need to determine where the brow hairs will be placed. This mapping technique works for human makeup artists so it should help you design eyebrows on your OOAK doll:
  1. To do brow mapping, take a toothpick and hold it on the outside of the nose (not the nose wings) going straight up along the bridge. This is ideally where the brows should begin. Mark this spot.
  2. Then, by angling the toothpick from the outside edge of the nose, to the outside edge of the iris, and up to the brow, mark that spot as where the brow should arch naturally.
  3. Then, mark one more spot - where the angled toothpick hits the brow when it lines up at the outer corner of the eye, that's where the brow should end.
  4. Then connect the 3 dots on top by drawing straight lines connecting each point around the top outside edge of the brow. Fill in the shape with tiny hair lines from the base of the brow up into the width.
Want to see this done on a person? See a video clip here:

Saturday, May 3, 2014

Tips For Dressing Male Dollhouse Dolls

This doll maker uses the glue method for making costumes. She shared some tips about men's pants, shirts and jacket lapels here:    Be sure to check out this 'how to". Included are tips on sculpting male bodies too.

Monday, April 14, 2014

Anatomy Of The Nose

Here you will find a detailed drawing lesson that you may find useful when sculpting the planes of the nose on your doll's face:

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Aged Hand And Foot WIP Photos

Thanks to this doll maker who shared his WIP. You will find great hand and foot detail photos that you might find helpful as reference for aged figures and for attaching a held object to a hand using a finger/hand/arm armature.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Bunka - Pulling Threads Demonstration

This video demonstrates pulling threads from Bunka cord to get the curly strands we use on doll costumes, hats and sometimes as wigging (see Uses For Bunka). Try each one of the pulls to see the thickness and curl they produce.

Friday, March 28, 2014

Little Stuff's Peacock Faerie

This little faerie is a 1:12 scale OOAK sculpt made with  Puppen and other FIMO clay blend. She is 5 1/2  inches tall with angora hair and Genesis painted details.  She is dressed in real peacock and other feathers .  She is watching the water ripple in the pond as her finger touches the surface. 

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Using Markers And Paint Pens

If you are having trouble painting your doll's eyes with heat-set or acrylic paints using a paint brush, you might want to try a paint pen or marker. The Sharpie product in this video is oil-based. Some alcohol-based art markers (like Prismacolor) will work too.

BUT, be sure to test any marker or paint pen on a scrap of baked clay first to ensure it is compatible with polymer clay. If it remains sticky or flakes, etc., it is not compatible. Also, if you are going to add a gloss over the paint or maker, be sure to test it too to be sure the gloss is compatible with the paint or marker ink.

Friday, March 21, 2014

Millinary Tutorial

This link will take you to one of my favorite tutorials for making basic period style hats: 
Many thanks to this doll maker for sharing her great photo tutorial. 
Be sure to check the topic 'Hats' in this blog's Index for lots more links and information about hat making.

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Uses For Bunka

Bunka is a sort of chain-stitched/braided 4-ply rayon 1/16" round cord. It is unraveled or 'pulled' to make a tiny curly strand. You just find the right end and pull a thread. Bunka has many uses; some make curls for doll hair and some use it for trim on costumes and hats.
Here are links to some blog posts with some information about Bunka:
And finally, a video demonstrating the unraveling of Bunka to get those curly threads: