Friday, August 26, 2016

Using Heat Set Paint To Paint A Face


Lots of tips for painting with Genesis heat set  paints on this video.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Choosing A Glue For No-Sew Costumes

Craft glues (such as Aleen’s Tacky, Delta Sobo, and Elmer’s Glue All, etc.) are referred to as PVA glues (polyvinyl acetate). This type of glue is used to make no-sew seams on doll costumes when the doll maker will not be wetting the costume fabric for draping because they are not waterproof. To keep the seams from coming apart when draping costumes that has seams glued with PVA craft glues, pin folds in place and drape the costume by ‘misting’ very lightly with inexpensive hairspray to ‘set’ the folds.
Waterproof permanent glues are the solvent-based adhesives (such as Beacon’s Fabri-Tac) and water-based urethane adhesives (such as Aileen’s Fabric Fusion). This type glue say washable on the label. Choose these glues when you want to saturate the costume fabric with spray starch, water or fabric stiffener for setting folds. Your seams will hold together when wet,

Each of these types of glue has additional properties that will make you decide to choose one over another for a particular application. See the topic 'Glue' on our Blog Index to learn more about how to use them to make no-sew costumes.

Saturday, August 13, 2016

Wigging With Viscose - Free Tutorials



Thanks to this doll artist for sharing these wonderful tutorials on wigging small scale dolls with viscose fiber - free to you to use and learn. Find them here:
2015: http://www.miniatureart.com/WC2015/index%20WC.html
2016: http://www.wiggingclub.com/

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Problem: Glue Seeping Through Fabric

Sometimes water-based glues are too thin and 'runny' so they bleed through fabrics, both silk and cottons. Try making the glue thicker by placing a small amount of water-based glue (such as Tacky) in a tiny container, like a bottle cap. Let it air dry until a crust forms on top; this takes a little while for the glue to thicken. Then, remove the crust. The glue is now 'more tacky' so various materials stay in place better, it doesn't bleed through fabric as easily and works as a filler. However, if you are going to drape the finished costume using water, steam, spray starch or other water -based solution be sure your glue is one that is waterproof (such as FabricTac) or all your seams may fall apart.

Monday, August 1, 2016

Gluing Silk


Tip: this video shows using a block of foam holding a MonoJet 412 syringe (filled with Tacky glue) and sharp pointed tools, such as tweezers, needle tools and pins, etc. Placing a filled syringe in foam keeps glue inside the tip, keeps the glue from running out, and keeps the glue from drying and thickening while you are using it.

Saturday, July 30, 2016

Tips For Smoothing Your Sculpt

On large areas of unbaked clay just use the side of your thumb or roll with a knitting needle. Many doll makers are using silicone tip tools to smooth small areas. You can use paint brushes too. One of our favorite doll artists said to try a short flat oil paint brush with stiff bristles first. Go in different directions to smooth, don't keep going the same way because it leaves ruts. Then use a small flat watercolor brush to pat down and feather over those areas. Smooth one area into the other. Get the clay as smooth as you can before baking.

Once you have baked your clay you smooth it by sanding and scraping. Hold you work up to a light to find any sharp edges and depressions. Scrape first with a sharp blade and then sand with 320-600 fine grit wet-dry sandpaper. You can sand and scrape after the first bake but be very careful because the clay is extremely breakable at that point.
To sand, use a small bowl of water and dip the sandpaper into it. You'll get the doll very wet, but that's OK.  Keep rinsing the sandpaper to clean the debris off of it. Make small pieces of sandpaper by doubling over the edge. Make a small point with the sandpaper if you need to get into a tight area. If the area is too tiny to get into with sandpaper, use small fine files with curved edges on them.
To scrape, it is easier to watch it done than to explain it. This is a video on making a baby but has information on sanding and scraping:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Eibz7sCGNM

When everything is smooth and finished you can try a light coat of acetone or you can try baby oil. With baby oil you rub your finger over the clay to eliminate the white scratches left by the sanding. To use acetone, dip a medium soft brush into a cap full of acetone and work a light coat in a small area. Do not let acetone run. Too much acetone will make a white haze as it dissolves your doll’s surface. To fix that, after it has dried and the clay has hardened again, you'll need to scrape most of the white out (that could be an hour or more). Then use that same light coat you were supposed to use in the first place. If your acetone marks are still showing, you could try using Genesis Glazing Medium on it.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Baby Mermaid Tutorial - Part 1 of 2 parts


This YouTube video demonstrates one doll maker's technique for sculpting a baby head and beginning the baby's body. She uses series baking to firm up the sculpted head and body prior to working on the remainder.
Part 2 is below. Be sure to watch how this tiny Merbaby is completed.

Baby Mermaid - Part 2 of 2 parts

Saturday, July 9, 2016

Problem: Gray Smudges

Three things to try to avoid gray smudges and other imperfections on your sculpt:

  1. Clean hands, tools and work surfaces frequently. Use moisturizing baby or hand wipes because they do more than remove dirt. Moisturized skin has a finer texture and doesn't capture dirt so easily so dirt won't transfer to the clay. 
  2. Metal tools will sometimes leave gray streaks on the clay too. Some doll makers advise not using metal tools at all and recommend sculpting tools made of unvarnished wood.
  3. When you apply raw clay (unbaked) to cured clay (baked), it sometimes leaves gray streaks. To avoid many of the gray smudges, you could try cleaning the cured surface with alcohol and then rub or brush lightly with a Polymer Clay Softener, and let it sit a while, and then apply the raw clay. Other doll makers always brush lightly with a Translucent Liquid Polymer Clay and then apply the raw clay.
  4. When you have completed adding raw clay and have baked the doll again, you could try sanding with wet/day sandpaper. Begin with 220 or 320 and work your way up to a finer grit. That may remove a gray smudge but will leave scratches. Scratches can be removed with acetone (see more about Smoothing for info on how to use acetone).

Saturday, July 2, 2016

Simple Fabric Draping


In real life, gravity makes fabric fall in folds. In small scale, fabric costumes have to be 'helped' to fall in folds.  Doll makers sometimes use pins to hold folds in place, often pinning skirts to a pinning board (cork or foam, or similar). This doll maker is demonstrating how she pulls and presses fabric into shape and then uses a wetting agent to set the folds. Pull and pinch fabric while wet and then let dry completely before touching!!!
Some wetting agents are; fabric stiffener, spray starch, hairspray, and water. Some fabric costumes must be wet all over so that any color change is even and not noticeable. Be sure to test your fabric before wetting your costume.
And one last tip: if the glue you used on your costume was water soluble, such as Tacky, only use hairspray. Solvent based glue, such as FabriTac, should not become unglued by any wetting agent.

Friday, June 24, 2016

Sculpting A Female Face- part 1 of 7 videos


Thanks to this doll maker for her series of videos demonstrating how to sculpt a doll head and facial features. You will find lots of information and tips on sculpting with polymer clay. Be sure to watch all 7 videos. You will find them here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLCA7569E0186B5F56&v=FagKXHsECI0

Friday, June 17, 2016

More Miniature Doll Information

OOAK Art Dollmakers has added a new Board to our Pinterest Page with more how-to do-it-yourself 'stuff' to assist you with making your own 1:12 scale dolls. These little poseable figures are fun to make and add so much to any miniature. You will find our board here:
https://www.pinterest.com/dollmakers/ooak-dollhouse-dolls/

If you are not a Pinterest member, sign up! Pinterest is free to join. You can save things or just look at things others have saved.

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Saturday, June 11, 2016

The Question About Push Molds

To mold or not to mold, that is the question! Much is said about that in the doll world so we are going to add our thoughts. To us, it is simple. If you are selling your doll as a one of a kind sculpture, no mold should be used. However, if you are not selling your doll, or not selling it as a one of a kind sculpture, it doesn't matter if you used a mold or not. 

There are reasons for using push molds. One is that when beginners are learning to sculpt dolls it is helpful to use a mold to shape a doll’s body and to learn proportion. Another reason some doll makers use a mold is that they use it as a sculpting tool. Used that way, it is a 'body-blank'; a stating place for sculpting. That is, a body or body parts are pulled from a mold and are then reshaped and detailed to form the figure type of the doll the sculptor is trying to create and facial features are sculpted on the blank head.

There are commercial doll molds available that you can use to pull the entire doll's body from or you can use it to just pull various body sections, such as the head and/or the torso. Some doll makers make their own 'body-blank' mold of a basic torso shape that they sculpted for that purpose. See the blog Index for the topic 'Push Molds' for more information about making and using molds.

One famous doll mold maker said that if you change your sculpt (that you pulled from a mold) by 30% you can call it your own. In the end, it is up to you, the doll maker, to decide for your self - will you mold or not mold?

Saturday, June 4, 2016

Reviving Old Clay

Have you ever opened a block of new clay and you couldn't get it to hold its shape?

Here is what to do when you open a new package of clay; take a small piece, like the size of a marble, and roll it out, twist it and roll it out again. Do this many times. The clay should be conditioned and ready to use.

If it crumbles or won't hold its shape, then add a tiny amount of clay softener. If after you added softener, it becomes soft and pliable, then you have old clay but it is still good.

If after you added the softener, you fold the roll in half and it cracks and won't hold together, then you have damaged clay that is no good. It is possible that your clay was exposed to heat, either in storage or transit. It is impossible to revive damaged clay.

Sunday, May 29, 2016

Painting A 1:12 Scale Doll's Face


This doll maker demonstrates painting a porcelain doll with acrylics. Some doll makers use heat set paint  but prefer to use acrylics for the eyes.

Sunday, May 22, 2016

Sculpting A Baby Head - WIP


This video demonstration runs for 32 minutes.

Saturday, May 14, 2016

OOAK Art Dollmakers is on Pinterest

We have pinned lots of doll making information and tutorials on our Pinterest page. Come visit us there and see what additional topics we have collected to help all our friends begin their doll making journey or increase their skills. You will find us here:

Thursday, May 12, 2016

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Sculpting Head/Face Using An Undersculpt

This doll artist has a detailed photo tutorial on sculpting an OOAK Art Doll Head/Face With Sculpted Eyes that she has shared with us. We really like this tutorial because it details how to sculpt a face on a cured skull-shaped under-sculpt made from polymer clay.
To size your doll's head,  decide on the height of your doll and divide it by either 7 1/2 or 8  (it is helpful to use a proportion chart). Then just follow the 4 part tutorial. You will find it here:
 https://morezmore.wordpress.com/2015/08/08/making-ooak-doll-head-face-with-sculpted-eyes-part-1/

Monday, May 2, 2016

Polymer Clay Eyes - UV Resin Tutorial — Part 1 of 3


TIP:
If your micro beads are too large, you can paint the pupil with black heat set paint.
Tools shown are Etch n Pearl by Sculpry; sold in a set of 3 metal skewers.

Polymer Clay Eyes - UV Resin Tutorial — Part 2 of 3


Polymer Clay Eyes - UV Resin Tutorial - Part 3 of 3


Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Sculpting Shoes

Many doll makers sculpt shoes directly on their doll's leg armature instead of making them separate. We found one photo WIP that shows how one doll artist made a shoe with a small heel. You will find it here:  https://morezmore.wordpress.com/2015/07/31/alice-workshop-part-3-hands-and-feet/

Another doll artist shows how she made a very high heel on her sculpt: http://patriciarosestudio.blogspot.com/2015/05/a-few-pages-will-be-added-every-few.html
Scroll down the Pink Lady photo tutorial to see how she did it.

Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Sunday, April 10, 2016

A Free Costume Tutorial For You

Thanks to this doll artist for sharing her costuming talent with us. Her Merci tutorial includes step by step instruction on how to costume a 1:12 scale doll. It includes wigging instruction to complete your doll too. Simply follow the link below to her web page. You need to scroll down to the bottom of the web page to find the link to the costume tutorial and click on Merci tutorial file to open the PDF:
http://www.miniatureart.com/

Thursday, April 7, 2016

Wigging Fibers



Be sure to check our Posts By Topic Index and click on 'Wigging" to read all the information on fibers, glue and tutorials about wigging small scale dolls.

Sunday, April 3, 2016

Books On How To Make 1:12 Scale Dolls

These 2 books are specifically about 1:12 scale poseable figure sculpting using polymer clay that we have found helpful (there are other methods of constructing doll house dolls).
One of our favorite books is by doll artist James Carrington. It covers all aspects of sculpting the poseable doll house scale character doll with polymer clay. The book includes information on plaster mold making and wigging.
The second book pictured here is by Sue Heaser. It covers another  technique of making a poseable doll house figure with polymer clay, wigging and includes some period costuming.

Saturday, April 2, 2016

How To Assemble 1:12 Scale Poseable Dolls


This post is a series if 3 videos; first is the assembly of a 2 part torso, then the assembly is completed on a 1 piece torso, and the last video demonstrates wrapping the connecting wires with yarn. This type of doll is poseable. These tiny dolls have a wire armature embedded into the sculpted torso and head clay with arms and legs added after baking.

Posted below are videos 2 and 3.

How To Assemble 1:12 Scale Poseable Dolls

Padding A Poseable 1:12 Scale Doll

Friday, March 18, 2016

How To Make Polymer Clay Eyes

Thanks to this doll artist for sharing this tutorial on flat backed polymer clay eyes. She calls it her mega-tutorial and you will find lots of tips and ideas for ways to make tiny eyes for your dolls. Check it out here: http://mistymooncreations.blogspot.com/2010/10/glass-eyes-for-your-dolls-tutorial.html

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Armature Video


Tuesday, March 8, 2016

Costume Tutorials

If you haven't found these many photo tutorials for costuming your miniature dolls, be sure to check out this web site: http://msatminidolls.minilists.com/projects.html   Our thanks for these free  'how to make it' directions, tips and tricks that were archived by a miniature doll artist to be shared with you.
Also be sure to see these tuts too: http://msatminidolls.minilists.com/archives.htm

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Information About Types of Sculpting Tools



This video is from a commercial tool company. OOAK Art Dollmakers does not not endorse any particular brand of tools! There are many sculpting tools available in craft stores and on-line and they all do the same job. Even homemade tools work well. However, this video demonstrates the various shape of many tools and describes how they are used. Perhaps beginning doll makers might find the information useful. Be sure to check our Index 'Tools" for more posts.

Here are some links to other sites with information about polymer clay tools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OX0hMVm1qb8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I2Tn8LuFi4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlJ6qP_H-fs

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Applying The Rules Of Proportion

One of our favorite doll makers said that you should memorize human proportions and that one way to do that is to speak out load as you are sculpting. You will find her proportion chart and phrases to reinforce your learning here:
http://pub18.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=1505510207&frmid=22&msgid=1343157

Working With Tibetan Lamb

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Sculpting a BJD from Polymer Clay


This video is an excerpt from a commercial DVD but It demonstrates the process of sculpting a BJD torso using polymer clay. The cured clay undersculpt made with the hollow opening for stringing is an interesting technique.

Monday, February 1, 2016

Sculpting A Face

Thanks to this doll artist for sharing her photo tutorial on sculpting a female face. Check it out here:
http://www.pgmsculpting.com.php5-19.dfw1-2.websitetestlink.com/face-tutorial-for-logan/

Friday, January 29, 2016

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Determine The Scale Of Your Doll

1.Determine the scale of your adult doll
5 ½ to 6 inch realistic doll – 1:12  scale (1 inch =12 inches)
7 ½ to 8 inch realistic doll = 1: 10 scale
9 ½ to 10 inch realistic doll = 1:8 scale
11 ½ to 12 inch realistic doll = 1: 6 scale (1 inch =6 inches)
For instance, your doll is 12" tall; 1" in his world equals 6" in ours (it is expressed as the ratio 1:6). This means that to find out how big a 12 inch tall doll would be in the real world, we simply MULTIPLY by 6.  For example, 12 inch doll x 6 = 72 inches or 6 foot tall.

2.Then you can find or make accessories in the scale of your doll - When we use the fraction to express the scale of something, example 1:6 (or one-sixth scale), we take something in the real world and DIVIDE it by 6.  For example, if we want to make or buy something for our doll to use that is just like something in the real world, we measure that real item and then divide it by the doll’s scale to find out what its measurements should be in that doll’s scale. Some readymade accessories already have their scale identified.

Monday, October 5, 2015

Genesis Heat Set Paint On Polymer Clay Dolls

So much confusion about using these paints on polymer clay. And no wonder, there is so much conflicting advice. Your best bet is to go directly to the manufacturers web site and click on their FAQ page: http://www.genesisartistcolors.com/   Here is some of what we learned:

One of the characteristics of Genesis heat-set paint is that they are thick and like stiff paste in the jar. They must be stirred. Just lift a tiny amount from the jar, place on a ceramic tile or glass and work it until it is malleable and smooth. You can mix paint colors together to get the color you desire. Then add a Genesis medium.

Genesis has 3 mediums: thick, thinning and glazing gel (it is recommended that you do not mix Genesis paint with other oils, mediums, solvents or acrylics for use on polymer clay).

  • Thick Medium: This medium looks like heat-set paint without pigment.You mix your color of paint and the thick medium to get a good layer of paint with transparency but still maintaining the same paint body (it does not thin the paint). You can add as much thick medium to the paint as you desire. For painting a small scale doll this is often used to make a transparent 'wash'. The thick medium will dry matte.
  • Thinning Medium and Glazing Gel: Both these mediums give Genesis paint a thinner consistency and are very efficient so only small amounts are added to your paint color to permanently thin the paint. Add a tiny bit at a time because the ratio must not exceed 40% medium to 60% paint. Adding more medium than the recommended ratio may result in your paint remaining tacky after heat setting (doll makers have reported other problems too). For a matte finish, choose the thinning medium. Choose the glazing gel to get a finish with a slight sheen and some transparency.

These paints stay wet until heated to activate the curing agent. After the drying temperature is reached they dry immediately. For thin layers, such as when painting and blushing a doll, as little as 2 minutes with a heat gun or 5 minutes in the oven. To check if dry, touch lightly with the back of your hand and if it is still tacky, then heat it again.

No varnish is needed over polymer clay dolls but are used to add a glossy finish over eyes,lips and nails when painted with heat set paint. If you have another purpose that needs a sealer, check the Genesis web site for all their varnishes that are compatible with their paints and mediums.

The advantage to using heat set paint is that you can apply it in thin overlapping layers that you heat set between layers. The painting technique is similar to that used for china painting on a porcelain doll; apply a color, heat set it, and then apply more color until you achieve your desired effect.

Some tips:

  • A pallet can be made from any glass item.
  • Cover all left over paints on your pallet to keep them clean and to store them. Since they never dry, you can use the paint again and again. When left on a non-porous surface the paint will return to its original state.
  • Try conditioning your brush with thinning medium...a TINY amount worked into your brush bristles will help paint to slide.
  • Do not paint on a warm sculpt. Cool completely!
  • Keep dedicated brushes for use with Genesis paints.The paint in the bristles stays wet until you clean the brush (Genesis has a brush cleaner).
  • Click on the topic 'Painting' in the blog index for more information.

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Friday, September 25, 2015

Metal Wires Used For Armatures

Doll artists have their preference about which wire they use. As you read their tutorials you may learn what wire they are choosing and if they twist strands together or not. We have gathered some very basic information about the different metal wires many doll makers use for small scale doll armatures. The gauge of wire you choose depends on many factors, such as height and pose of figure, or if the doll will be poseable after completion. It is up to each individual doll maker which wire they prefer.

Copper and Brass Wire. When pressure is applied to the clay with a sculpting tool, a copper or brass armature tends to give and then spring back instead of holding stiffly in position. Brass is stronger than copper or aluminum.
Aluminum Wire. Aluminum has almost no spring when pressure is applied and it bends easily. It also breaks from bending easier than steel wire. To compensate. you may have to use a slightly thicker gauge than you might with copper or brass.
Galvanized Steel Wire. Steel is stiffer than copper. brass or aluminum. It will break when repeatedly bent. Twisting several smaller gauge strands together makes an armature wire that is stronger and resists breaking.

Wire is available at hardware stores, home improvement stores and many web sites. Gauge refers to a wires thickness. For information about gauges, click on the topic Armatures on the blog's Index.

Sunday, September 20, 2015

Problem: Glue Leaking From Syringe Tip

Here are several solutions to try:

  • Never put more than 1 inch of glue in syringe.
  • Pull back the plunger just a tiny fraction each time you are done placing a line of glue.
  • Place a stainless steel pin in the tip or use a rubber tip from the smallest knitting needle to cover.
  • Place syringe upside down with the tip stuck into a piece of close density foam (the kind used for packaging) as you are gluing a seam.


Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Bulking Out An Armature

Sunday, September 13, 2015

Applying Glue To Fabric Without A Syringe

When you glue a seam either with Tacky glue or Fabric-Tac glue, the trick is to use very little. A syringe is a tool that is used to keep a continuous, very thin line, of glue along the edge of fabric seams. If you don't have a syringe try this: first squeeze out a dot on a hard surface and use a needle tool or toothpick to lightly, and I do mean lightly, touch the glue along the seam line trying to make a continuous thin line of glue. Then allow it to dry until it is opaque. Once the glue gets to that stage, line up the fabric pieces and lightly tap them together. When tap, do not press hard. Once the seam is completely dry, then finger press. Some doll makers take the seam to the ironing board to press the seam. We find that sometimes that makes the seam slightly shiny but you should have no glue marks. Try it. See if it works for you.
Check the Index for more information about glues and using syringes.

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Friday, August 21, 2015

Working With Polymer Clay In The Summer


Great advice from this polymer clay artist for using, storing and buying polymer clay when it is hot.

Glue For Polymer Clay

When working with polymer clay, you will probably need to glue things together. I am sure you have found that there is no glue that is good for all situations.Thanks to this polymer clay artist for her article 'Whats The Best Glue For Polymer Clay?' that provides information about many types of glue. Find her article here:  http://thebluebottletree.com/best-glue-for-polymer-clay/

Saturday, August 8, 2015

Sculpting A Pin Up Doll

One of our favorite doll artists has shared how she made her latest pin-up doll. You will find her technique for an armature and under-sculpt for the feet with high healed shoes to be very helpful.
Find her photo tutorials here:
http://patriciarosestudio.blogspot.com/2015/05/a-few-pages-will-be-added-every-few.html
http://patriciarosestudio.blogspot.com/2015/08/blog-post.html

Monday, August 3, 2015

Problem: New Clay Won't Adhere To Baked Clay

This problem occurs when you are series baking, that is, when you add raw clay over clay you previously baked to set it. The solution is to use a wetting agent, like Translucent Liquid Sculpey. Kato clay adhesive or some smoothing oil, to the already partially baked clay to insure a bond is created. See more about series baking, under-sculpts and adhesives.

Sunday, July 19, 2015

Problem: Clay Darkens When Super Heating

Super heating is a technique to add strength and some flexibility to polymer clay. One issue with this technique is darkening of some clay; be sure to test the clay you are using before doing this. If your clay darkened, try the clay suggested by one doll maker who said this technique works well on ProSculpt Baby. After super heating, let the clay cool on its own. See more about super-heating here:
http://madsculptor.blogspot.com/2011/06/super-heating.html

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Making The Under Sculpt


Thanks to this doll maker for showing her technique for bulking out her dolls. Some doll makers use only foil wrapped with tape. Some use only epoxy sculpt. Others use only polymer clay. And others wrap the limbs with tape; masking tape, floral tape or aluminium tape. The idea is to bulk out the torso, cover the armature wires and provide a hard surface to begin applying clay and sculpting the doll. Experiment to see what works best for you.

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Hand Sculpting

Thanks to this doll maker for this detailed photo tutorial on sculpting a female hand, with male and elderly variations. You will find it here: http://www.cdhm.org/tutorials/learn-detailed-hand-sculpting.html

Thursday, July 2, 2015

Sculpt A 1;12 Scale Head


This video begins with forming a wire armature. bulking it out with foil and then adding clay. Eyes are pre-made and inserted into the head, facial features formed. the neck is added and torso started. The doll head and upper torso is cured before proceeding with the remaining sculpt.

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Genesis Color Mixing Chart

With these basic 5 Genesis colors...burnt umber, Genesis red, Genesis yellow, titanium white and ultramarine blue you can mix the colors on the chart you will find on this web site:
http://www.stillmomentsnursery.com/store/index.php?main_page=genesis_paint_color_mixing_chart
Be sure to check the Index to find more information about using Genesis paint on polymer clay.

Friday, June 26, 2015

Advanced Armatures and Body Proportions



Some doll makers use epoxy sculpt or scrap polymer clay for bulking out the torso on their smaller dolls. Larger dolls, like the one in this video, need lots more bulking out and foil works well. You will notice 'bulking out' referred to as an under-sculpt.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Series Baking

Polymer clay can be baked several times without negative effects. This quality of the clay enables the sculptor to protect delicately modeled parts and build a solidly cured foundation for additional elements, a process I call "series baking." A word of caution though: each step in the series should be carefully planned, since once baked, the element is cured for good. So, as example, if the first element you bake in a human figure is the torso, you must plan to have all the detailing done, and the necessary wire armature sockets in place for the head, arms and legs to be attached later. Once the torso is baked, it's shape is protected and it then becomes a convenient "handle" as each of the unbaked components are added to the piece.
Find more tips and techniques by this doll maker here: http://www.elvenwork.com/tips.html#seven

Monday, June 8, 2015

Tools Used By Dollmakers & How To Make An Armature For A Mermaid



Look for the mermaid chart shown in this video, that you can copy, size and print out, by clicking on the Index topic 'Fantasy - Fins And Tails' and select Mermaid Proportion Chart.

Sunday, June 7, 2015

Mermaid WIP

Be sure to check out this doll maker's WIP as she sculpts a mermaid. This is a photo tutorial with lots of descriptions; including how she made a base too. http://morezmore.com/myblog/2007/12/02/diving-mermaid/

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Doll Eyes Tutorial - Cane Technique



You will like this video demonstrating the cane method of making eyes for your doll. It is not in English but there are sub-titles.

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

How To Attach A Head

This doll artist has made a short video demonstrating how she attaches a baked polymer clay head to an unbaked torso and is sharing it with other doll makers. Be sure to watch it. Click on the link here:
http://www.sculptuniversity.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=521:sculpting-a-little-mermaid-torso-part-one&catid=42:mermaids&Itemid=156

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Sculpting Teeth

Ever need to sculpt teeth? Thanks to this doll maker for his photo tutorial on adding teeth to an under-sculpt:
http://madsculptor.blogspot.com/2011/02/teeth.html

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Sculpt A Polymer Clay Baby


Warning: this video contains doll nudity!

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Painting Eyes Using Acrylic and Genesis Paints

Thanks to this doll maker for her tutorial on how to paint eyes using both both acrylic paint and genesis paint. Find the link you find on this web page: http://www.ooakdollart.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=477   You need to click on the link to open the pdf tutorial.

Saturday, March 21, 2015

Human Proportion


Caution: contains statue nudity!
This video discusses human proportion using head length as a unit of measure; a convenient reference for sculptors to use.

Friday, March 20, 2015

Genesis Paint Color Chart

You will find a chart for all Genesis heat-set paint colors here:
http://morezmore.com/myblog/2006/11/03/genesis-paints-color-chart/

Monday, March 16, 2015

Problem: Moonies

Thanks to this doll maker for this short photo tutorial demonstrating how to repair a 'moonie' that appears after you bake your doll: http://ayala-artdolls.blogspot.com/2011/06/moonie-tutorial.html

Sunday, March 8, 2015

How To Alter A Miniature Doll Stand


This video demonstrates how to alter a mini doll stand to remove the wires that circle a doll's waist area. This doll maker then glues her doll directly to the stand.

Gluing A Miniature Doll To A Stand


This is an interesting idea for keeping your doll standing. If your doll is the poesable type, only the arms will remain bendable.

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Iris 'Printies' For Doll Eyeballs

If you need sheets of iris 'printies' to use when making eyeballs to insert into your doll sculpt, look no more! Thanks to this doll maker who has shared 2 sheets for you to download (free). You will find them here along with several tutorials about making and inserting eyes:  http://www.fdmj-creations.org/eyes.html

Sunday, February 22, 2015

'No-Sew' Dressing For Miniature Dolls

Thanks to this doll maker for these 2 videos showing how she makes a 'no-sew' half slip and skirt on her doll. So simple! You can see them here:
http://aligratutoriales.blogspot.pt/search?updated-max=2012-05-29T04:03:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=7&by-date=false
And 5 more here showing how the jacket is made:
http://aligratutoriales.blogspot.pt/2012/05/vestuario-chaqueta-casaco.html
jacket pattern here: http://aligratutoriales.blogspot.com/2012/05/vestuario-molde-base.html

Friday, February 13, 2015

Polymer Clay Eyes

Thanks to this doll maker for an interesting tutorial on making eyes using polymer clay and finishing with UV gel. Be sure to check out these 3 videos plus a discussion of this technique:
http://tinystares.blogspot.com/2015/01/video-tutorial-blog-on-making-realistic.html

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Polymer Clay For Doll Sculpting

There are many brands of polymer clay that are suitable for small scale doll making and each doll maker has their favorite clay. Some doll makers mix clays to get the flesh tone they desire or to increase strength. The Guild suggests that you try many clays until you find the one that suits your sculpting style. Listed below are some flesh colored clays to try:
  • Prosculpt  (comes in light, baby and flesh)
  • FIMO Puppen* is now called FIMO Professional Doll Art (comes in opaque sand, translucent beige, opaque cameo, translucent rose, and translucent porcelain).
  • Sculpey Living Doll (comes in light, beige, baby and brown)
  • Sculpey Premo (comes in light flesh)
  • Cernit (comes in flesh, suntan, biscuit, almond, nougat and caramel)
  • Kato Polyclay (comes in beige flesh)
* Puppen is still available at some suppliers (comes in beige, rose, flesh and porcelain)

Monday, February 2, 2015

Preparing To Sculpt An OOAK Doll


Ever want to watch someone begin to sculpt their doll? This doll maker shares her WIP so you can see her process: make a wire armature, stabilize wire with epoxy, add an undersculpt of crumpled foil for additional bulk, wrap all exposed wire and the undersculpt with tape, and then apply the outer layer of polymer clay. All that is done prior to starting to sculpt the clay into the shape desired. It's easy, especially once you see it done!

Thursday, January 29, 2015

Working With Patterns Using Freezer Paper

This link is to a very good tutorial on making a corset for a doll and includes a free pattern for you to 'size' to fit your doll. Of particular interest is how this doll maker uses freezer paper for making her patterns and how to use the freezer paper pattern pieces when cutting fabric. Be sure to try this technique!  http://creativedoll.blogspot.ca/2010/06/corset-tutorial.html

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Using Black Markers On Polymer Clay

Thanks to this polymer clay artist who has tested and compared black markers and inks. Whether you’re signing your doll, coloring eye pupils or adding a design element, doll makers need to know which black markers may bleed or fade when used on polymer clay.  See the results here:
http://thebluebottletree.com/pens-to-use-on-polymer-clay/
Our advice is to be sure to test your black or colored markers on a sample of your brand of polymer clay so you won't be disappointed with the result when used on your dolls (remember that products used to seal or gloss may cause some markers to bleed too)

Friday, January 16, 2015

Armatures - For Use In Molds

Thanks to this doll maker for these 2 photo tutorials on how to make and size a wire armature for use in small scale polymer clay doll molds:
http://www.patriciarosestudio.com/html/tutorial-2-1a.html
http://patriciarosestudio.blogspot.com/2015/01/armatures-101-for-beginners.html